A Feathery Tale

Way back in September 2016, we went off into the Cotswolds on a church hunt.  We discovered the twin parishes of Eastleach Martin, and Eastleach Turville - two delightful churches separated by the River Leach - which can either be crossed by road or clapper bridge. Unfortunately, on this first visit, we were not able to go inside Eastleach Martin church, as it was closed and cordoned off awaiting repairs, following a lightning strike on 27th August, 2016.

September 2016

We vowed to return to this idyllic spot each quarter and take photographs to record how it appeared in different seasons. Our previous visit it was early autumn, when berries were ripe and vegetation was lush.  Unfortunately, the skies were grey and overcast, making the photos from this first visit look rather drab and dismal.

Despite our intention to take four lots of photos in a year, it was sixteen months before we managed to fit in a return visit!

January 2018

On the right is a second shot of the clapper bridge, taken on a sunny  day in January. The bench to the left of the bridge on the far side of the river,  is more clearly visible as the vegetation has died back, which also makes the river appear wider. The January sunshine makes the photos from our second visit look so much more alive and interesting, despite the bareness of trees and shrubs!



The first essential requirement when visiting small villages is finding somewhere to park that doesn't upset the locals/cause a traffic jam/damage a verge or result in any other antisocial behaviour. As people tend to travel to attend services these days most churches have an area close to a gate which has space for a few cars - some even have a field. In this village the parking is limited, but we managed to find somewhere to leave the car that hopefully didn't inconvenience anyone.

Eastleach is in effect one community with two churches, both with a similar floorplan. A visitor might wonder why two churches came to be built so close to each other. There is a rumour that the twin churches were built by feuding sisters. The truth is much more mundane - they were built to serve those living on the estates of different manors and just happen to be adjacent, as both were built close to the river, albeit on different sides.

We met a lady close to the gate of Eastleach Martin churchyard, who recommended that we visit the church as it was open.  She cannot have been a local, as she did not recall the closure of the previous year. Little did she know that we needed no encouragement to venture through the door.

Eastleach Martin church was a joy to behold and a photographers dream. With the January sunshine illuminating the building, there was just so much to photograph.  The small community does not have large enough congregations to require both churches.  Services are still regularly held at the church over the river, leaving this church entrusted to the Churches Conservation Trust as a reminder of a bygone age. Some churches in the care of the Trust are empty, others feel mothballed, but because there were still flowers placed in this church it still feels loved, a place where people still come to enjoy the tranquillity within this place of sacred sanctuary.









Inside the church were little quirks, like the wreaths that decorated the building.  The bells - three plus sanctus, were still in place - and the sallies looked to be in excellent condition.












Eastleach Martin is full of architectural gems like these carvings that enhance the arches.



Despite the presence of an electric organ, there was no evidence of any electricity within the building. We decided that they must bring a portable power unit with them when there was a service.










Next, we visited the sister church on the other side of the river, the church at Eastleach Turville.  Above the doorway is the most impressive stone carving of Christ in majesty











Last time we were here it was just around the time of their Harvest celebrations.













The decorations were very well done, festooning the church with the glories of creation.










Researching the church later I was amused to discover, that the ornately carved lectern had once been situated in Tewkesbury Abbey, and then for some years been utilised as a parrot stand. Apparently, after the demise of the bird the lectern was restored and returning to use within an ecclesiastical setting - hopefully that didn't ruffle too many feathers...

John Kebble, who inspired the Oxford Movement within the church of England, served as a curate here.


Burford was our destination for lunch. We noted that the prices have risen in our usual cafe. The food there is nice, but not exceptional. We came to the conclusion that there must be cheaper places to eat, even in this tourist hotspot. The foreign tourists may still cross the threshold, but we will look elsewhere. Look on the bright side, at least the parking is free!

In the meantime, we will certainly return to Eastleach.  Daffodils were in bud on the river bank so we would like to time our visit for a sunny day when they are at their glorious golden best.  The question is, will that be in 2018?